Interesting post, thanks for the idea! On my L134, it took me a while to find them. In addition, there was a recession in '56 and the automobile industry was hit hard. What is the actual condition of the ignition system Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, coil, dropping resistor and condenser. In 1949 Picket Gray, Normandy Blue and Michigan Yellow were dropped and Emerald Green a dark green was added. Other than looking around under the hood for obvious clues like a loose fan belt, no radiator, coolant sprinkler on the side of the block, etc.
More than 132,000 are made before the production ends in 1953. I may have missed the string that led up to this decision but you don't have to pull the engine. Leo Dutilly wrote: Hello Listers, I am new and would like to introduce myself. If it is on the back tailgate panel, your Jeep is most likely a 1950-1952 M38. Some patterns have started to show up and I need more serial numbers to back up further updates. There could be an engine mechanical problem that is overwhelming the cooling system. I bought it while back with intentions of restoring it back to it former glory as a feared bogger.
So it's still not completely clear how the switch between the two series was made; those two entries which seem to break the continuity are a puzzle. Maybe Willys was heavily involved in building them at the start of the '54 model year, necessitating the need to build 3Bs elsewhere? Also, Rick Cool suggested other body, assembled somewhere other than the normal factory. I think you said you have a new water pump and the engine was freshly rebuilt, so those two things should not be at fault, but assuming Danger! Just thought its kind of funny. Didnt' see the three numbers stamped in a triangle pattern either. I always wondered about this tag 628164 and since running across it the other day, was going to post the question.
I have a L 134 in my 50 stake body that I know is not original because I have the original in itty bitty peices. I think you said you pulled the thermostat for troubleshooting. We tend to discuss this willys engine serial numbers pic in this post simply because according to data from Google engine, It is one of the best searches keyword on google. Providing you have a visible place to install a timing marker. I have done similar conversions on 134's but you need to do some machining. The L134 engine has the piston offset towards the passenger side away from the spark plug hole.
A1: If you have a single piece windshield, go to 3 A2: If you have a split windshield, got to 6 3. Check to make sure the rotor is pointing to the number one cylinder. I was glad to learn that someone had already done this on my engine. It is normal for a motor to have some blowby pass the piston rings, and this gas has to be vented somehow. By the way, one non-jeep neighbor suggested that maybe the jeep was a special such as Laredo and that off board meant that the production was keapt off the production board! But it is not marked A-1534, so don't bother looking for the number on the head.
It is of a different style of lettering and is stamped as opposed to being embossed. It can be done manually with the crank handle or the starter. Repeat the turning over trick for about a day with kero. I don't get my feelings hurt easily. The serial numbers are located on the frame horn behind the front bumper. I was on a roll one day and I've been too anxious to get things running.
Accidentally engaging the starter motor would be very bad so why take the chance. The oil in the air-filter is separate, not part of the engine oil. Rick Stivers wrote: I have seen oil return holes plugged to the point they would not allow oil to return without a positive pressure applied. Joseph wrote: Please allow me to join in. Has original hardtop and doors.
If one cylinder is down possibly no 4. Gently rotate the engine clockwise until it stops do not force it. The area on the top of the block between the cylinder head and the water pump was enlarged to accept the new engine stamping method. What state did the willys come from? Kendal Jackson wrote: It seems as if my timing marks are off. I got a Kaiser SuperSonic that came out of my '46 that I'm planning on reworking for another project and is a likely candidate for this conversion. Three year restoration spared no expence.
Now what if you see little or no coolant flow through the radiator? Another option like previously described, Blok-Chek is a simple chemical test that reacts to combustion gasses in the coolant. The F134 has a pointer on the timing cover plus a notched pulley, so I don't know if it also kept the flywheel marks. The vehicle had to have all the major components and atleast move under it's own power. Headlight trim rings changed from being the body color to chrome body color up to 38687 chrome there after Rear tail lamp door was changed from black to chrome at or around 45723 Rear Reflectors changed from black to chrome at or around 67921 Solid disc wheels were changed to the slotted dropped center wheels during this time period. A valve job at a machine shop puts a precise bevel on the valve and seat surfaces which is superior to what you can do with lapping.
It still begs the question though that if there was a shortfall, then A. It lacks two small cutouts in the upper lip, designed for the M38-style rear spare tire mount. Another possibility is if the pulley were to spin on the water pump shaft. I can take the cap off and get to the points but to remove the distributor, I have to remove the bushings on the motor mounts and lower the front of the engine. The letters L, R, S, T and U appear on Jeeps sent to Australia. Unbelievably, I have a '58 Chiltons manual.